Ford Sierra Cosworth 4x4 | D.Modelkits 1:24

10 April 2026

Author | Krzysztof Szpakowski

Update 1 | 10.10.2025

It's time to present another 1/24 scale project - the Ford Sierra Cosworth 4x4, driven by the M. Biasion / T. Siviero crew in the 1992 Portugal Rally. The Ford model by D.Modelkits is the first of two debut products from this brand.

 

 

 

 

Here's an in-box:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The level of detail and the overall quality of the product look very good. However, this doesn’t change the fact that a few aspects could be improved - here’s the first selection of SCO parts and additional decals that I’ll be using in this project.

 

 

 

 

 

And finally, here’s the basic color palette for the Ford Sierra.

 

 

 

 

Update 2 | 26.10.2025

As usual, I start by test-fitting the parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reshaping, measuring, drilling - I’m preparing the car body for the SCO parts: bolts, door locks, and hood pins.
I also decided to replace a few light bulbs, using pin heads instead.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Below is a list of paints and additional SCO parts I used:
 
• Wheels - painted with Tamiya white primer + TS-26
• Bolts - Hexagonal bolts ( SCO-R003) painted with TS-100 + Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color Black
• Tire valves - ( SCO-R002) painted with TS-29
• Air ducts cap for the front brakes mounting bolts - Rivets 0,7 mm (round head + washer) ( SCO-R067) painted with Humbrol 11 + Tamiya Panel Accent Color Gray


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I ran a few extra tests to make sure all the parts of the Ford’s body fit together properly. Right now, the Sierra has been stripped down again and is waiting for a coat of primer, after which I’ll fix any small imperfections I might have missed.
 
 
 
 
 
Update 3 | 24.11.2025
The Ford was painted with a white primer. However, I’m not satisfied with some elements, so I need to make further modifications and reshaping.
 
 
 
 
After many, many hours spent reshaping the car body, I finally managed to paint it white.
 
 
 
 
 
Masking and painting the bumpers and the lower sections of the Sierra’s doors.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
More masking, this time to paint the door trims and the rear spoiler.
 
 
 
 
 
 
The next stage of the build was applying the red and white stripe decals on the bumpers. Unfortunately, the model didn’t include the white stripes, so I used separately purchased decals instead.
 
 
 
 
 
 
The next step was to apply a thin layer of clear coat to the body and bumpers. The goal is to even out the painted surface and protect the decals already applied. The model is now ready for more decals.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Update 4 | 13.12.2025

How hard is it to make a perfect circle? It turns out that making one is easier than figuring out how to make it and which materials to use.

 

It took me quite a while to work out a proper method for making perfectly round seals for the mounts of the additional halogen lights. So far, this had been one of the most underdeveloped details in the Ford set, which is why it became a personal challenge for me to get it right.

 

 


 

I removed the original kit mounting screws along with the unfortunate seals, which couldn’t be painted evenly. To make new black seals, I used black masking tape and a compass cutter purchased specifically for this project.
 

The mounting bolts were replaced with an SCO product: Rivets 0,6 mm (round head + washer).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chroming time - night rally lights done! I stand by my opinion: so far, this is the worst-designed part of the entire model and I have to add that these are the worst-designed halogens I’ve ever come across.

Working on these parts pushed both my modelling skills and my patience to the limit. In the end, though, I’m happy with the result :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once again, the Ford was masked up to paint the rear light reflectors. Rear lights done.


As shown earlier, I modified several details, including the bulbs and reflectors. The reflectors were incorrectly represented in the kit, so I corrected this error to make all the details match the real car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Update 5 | 26.01.2026
The decaling process has started. The first two "Mobil 1" decals are on the Ford.


 
 
 
Applying decals perfectly straight and evenly is never easy, especially when the model lacks reference points such as trim or body panel lines. That’s why it’s worth creating your own reference points. I use masking tape and a marker for this. Measuring takes a lot of time, but it’s the only way to make sure the decals are applied correctly.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Overall look of the Ford after the first wave of decals. Now the Sierra will be stripped again, as the body needs to be prepared for clear coat painting. The remaining decals will be applied to the polished paint.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The model was painted with Tamiya TS-13 using many very thin layers to avoid damaging the decals. I used the Christmas break to let the Ford dry properly.

After a several-week break from modeling, I made a black coffee and started polishing ;) To give the Sierra even more shine, I used Meguiar’s Gold Class Carnauba Wax paste - the same one I use on my real car. The results exceeded my expectations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Update 6 | 13.02.2026

Work on the front-end details. The lamp reflectors were finished with Gild Chrome paint to achieve a realistic metallic effect.

The turn signal units and lenses were then installed. This proved slightly challenging, as the navigator’s side lens required adjustment to achieve a proper fit.

The reflectors were painted with Humbrol 11, consistent with the treatment applied to the rear lamp assemblies. The indicator bulbs were replicated using pin heads painted orange.
 

One notable inaccuracy in the kit instructions concerns the grille mesh, which is incorrectly specified as black. In reference to the original car, this element should be painted white. The Ford badge was also replaced with an alternative decal, as the kit-supplied marking lacked accurate color detailing.
 

The accompanying photograph shows the kit instructions annotated with corrections, along with a complete list of the paints used.
This may serve as a useful reference for anyone intending to build the Sierra in its 1992 Mobil 1 specification.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the panel lines have been done.
I also improved the existing ones at the front of the Ford - around the front lights.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The registration decals were applied in their respective positions. The mesh was installed in the front bumper. I recommend fitting the mesh from the inside of the bumper rather than from the outside, as suggested in the instructions - this approach significantly reduces the risk of damage and simplifies alignment during installation.
 

The front towing hooks were then added. For those aiming at maximum accuracy, I recommend finishing this detail with Tamiya TS-39, sealed with a matt clear coat to achieve the correct tone. This is another point where the kit instructions differ from the appearance of the original vehicle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Small details that make a Big difference! The following SCO components were used on the hood and front bumper: mounting bolts for the auxiliary lighting and the hood pins. In my opinion, the SCO hood pins offer a noticeably more realistic appearance compared to the photo-etched parts included in the kit. Their three-dimensional form adds depth and improves the overall authenticity of the front-end detailing.
 

The parts and paint references used are listed below:

• Hood pins SCO-R076
• Humbrol 11 + Tamiya Panel Line (black and gray)
• Rivets 0,7 mm (round head + washer) SCO-R067

Additionally, the roof-mounted air intakes were installed, and the majority of the decals have now been applied to the bodywork.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update 7 | 10.04.2026
Door handles and door locks completed.
There are a few mistakes and omissions in the kit instructions, which indicate that the door handles should be black - however, in reality, during the Portugal Rally, the Sierra had white ones.

 

The door locks are not mentioned at all, and I have noticed that many modelers incorrectly paint them silver. I removed the original locks from the Ford body and replaced them with SCO outer door locks (SCO-R056), painting them black to match the real car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time to start working on the interior.
First task - checking the fit of the roll cage parts.

 

 

 

 

 

Planning, measuring, drilling… Just like with my previous builds, when it comes to interior work, proper planning is key. That’s why I usually create my own instructions with notes, so that during final assembly I don’t miss any details or make mistakes. It’s a very time-consuming process, involving hours spent studying reference photos of real cars and figuring out how to transfer those details into the model.

 

The next step is measuring and drilling the interior to prepare for installing details such as fuel lines, electrical wiring, fire extinguisher lines, brake lines, seat belt mounts, and cable mounts. Additionally, I replace existing bolts and add missing ones or rivets.

 

At this stage, I’ve completed 67 drill holes, and everything is ready for painting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Floor plate and roll cage painted with primer and white.

 

 

 

 

 

Playing with masking tape and black paint. I’ve noticed that no one else seems to have picked up on this (at least among all the Ford Sierra models I’ve seen so far) - the rear parcel shelf should be black. This is clearly an inaccuracy in the kit instructions and is worth pointing out.

 

 

 

 

 

Now the fun begins! First details completed. I made non-slip mats for the driver and co-driver from sandpaper, cut to size.

The thermal insulation protecting against heat from the gearbox was made from foil taken from a cigarette pack.

 

The base of the gear shift lever was enhanced with SCO parts - 0,6 mm rivets (round head + washer).

In the rear section, you can also see hexagonal bolts V.4 (SCO-R057) and 0,8 mm rivets (round head + washer).

 

 

 

 

 

Handbrake cables running to the rear of the car completed. I used 0,5 mm silver wire, and the splitter for the left and right sides is an SCO part from the Hose joints V.2 set (SCO-R059).

 

I painted the windshield washer fluid reservoir to simulate the presence of fluid inside. I removed the original cap and replaced it with a hexagonal bolt V.4 (SCO-R057) from SCO.

 

The washer fluid hose and the electrical wire running from the rear are made from 0,4 mm black wire from Hiro.

 

 

 

 

 

Fuel lines and hand brake with lines done. Fuel lines are Top Studio 0,6 mm connected with SCO Hose joints V.2
The handbrake cables are 0,5 mm wire. The cable splitter is also a SCO part from the Hose joints V.2
The emergency switch in the handbrake is a SCO product from the killswitches set ( SCO-R074).
 
 
 
 
 

Fire extinguishers completed.

 

Both fire extinguishers were modified - I removed the mounting clamps and made my own using masking tape. This allowed me to avoid the time-consuming process of masking and painting. Additionally, the original clamps were poorly positioned and inaccurate.

Another modification concerns the color scheme - the instructions provide incorrect colors for these parts, at least according to my reference photos.

 

The main onboard fire extinguisher (behind the co-driver) was enhanced with two lines: the main extinguishing line (thicker 0,6 mm) is an SCO product, while the second line, responsible for triggering the system, is a 0,2 mm wire from Hiro.

 

The kit did not include decals for the fire extinguishers, so I had to improvise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To detail this part, I used Kevlar decals from Scale Motorsport and applied a wash using the Tamiya Weathering Master Set A.

Additionally, I used four mounting points made from SCO 0,8 mm rivets (round head + washer). The battery wires are 0,4 mm Hiro wire.

 

Water tank - Rally versions of the Ford Sierra used water to cool the air entering the intercooler, which increased engine performance. So if anyone was wondering what the tank behind the co-driver is for - it’s a water tank for intercooler air cooling.

 

I painted the tank with Tamiya TS-7 Racing White and replaced the original filler cap with an SCO part - hexagonal bolts V.6 (SCO-R058).

The line running to the front of the model is 0,6 mm wire from the SCO set - wires 0,6 mm (SCO-A001). The black wire with an electrical connector running from the rear is also a 0,6 mm SCO wire, combined with a part from the electrical connectors set (SCO-R032).
 

Warning triangle - A detail I’m particularly pleased with is the warning triangle. I inserted silver foil cut to size to imitate a reflector, similar to how I treat rear lights. I then painted it with several layers of TS-74 Clear Red. Additionally, I replaced the screws with SCO 0,8 mm rivets (round head + washer).

 

First aid kit - If anyone is looking for an equivalent of X-15 spray, TS-22 Light Green is a good match - that’s what I used to paint the first aid kit. The decal comes from a generic set.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below you will find corrections to the instructions regarding the colors of various details, as well as the additional parts described and highlighted.

 

 

 

Author | Krzysztof Szpakowski

 

 


 

Next workbench | Ford Thunderbird NASCAR